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Thoughts on Things

November 24, 2017 Sarah Reeder
Thoughts on Things.jpg

This is a brief snippet of a much longer monologue that runs continually in my head as I work professionally in the world of things and help guide people through the process of dealing with material objects.

I'm writing this on Black Friday, which here in the United States has become a cultural celebration of consumerism that has eclipsed Thanksgiving.  It inspires mixed feelings in me--as a small business owner, I am well aware of how important Black Friday sales are for the survival of small retail businesses, but I also sense the imbalanced dynamic of our society's relationship with things.

I'm not posting this to chastise you for purchasing something, or to give you a lecture about why you should boycott Black Friday.  I don't feel like I don't have any business dictating your consumer choices.  Using Black Friday sale coupons for items you were planning to purchase anyway can be an important tool for keeping within your budget and maintaining your financial health, and I respect that.

What I do have to share is my perspective as an appraiser, one gleaned from many years of studying the materials, construction, and design of things, and also from my role documenting what remains after someone has passed when I have to write an appraisal report for estate purposes. 

Often I am one of the first people outside the immediate family in a home after someone has passed, and it is simultaneously unsettling and humbling to have the responsibility of documenting the objects they left behind in death.  It usually takes me several hours to calm down from it afterwards--the closeness, the sense that the departed has just gone out for groceries and will be back soon.  I can't imagine how much more wrenching it must feel for family members. 

The household contents vary in each situation of course, but more often than I would like I encounter estates stuffed full with a dizzying volume of mass-produced consumer goods, some unopened in their original packages, and grieving family members who feel like they are drowning under the weight of trying to handle all that stuff in addition to healing from the loss of their loved one. 

I see many parallels between the ubiquity of fast food and how it has overshadowed the ways that people traditionally cooked and prepared food and the ways that "fast consumer goods" have infiltrated our homes.  Both are highly processed and full of artificial ingredients, are made elsewhere by anonymous workers we never meet and have no relationship with, and are acquired mindlessly at an alarming rate in our current culture. 

Early in my career I worked at the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (on the curatorial and research sides, not the costumed interpreter side, to answer in advance the people who inevitably ask) and they had a resource there called the York County Records Room that was full of probate inventories from individuals who lived in York County, Virginia in the 17th and 18th centuries.  These probate inventories were the historical versions of what I write now in my appraisal firm:  a listing of the worldly goods belonging to someone at their death.  What was so remarkable about reading through them and now comparing with the context of our own window in time was how few items people owned, even the most affluent members of the community.  Probate inventories were typically only two or three pages--for everything someone owned!  I suspect most of us would take two or three pages to list the contents of a single room in our homes.  People now like to laugh about the trends of minimalism and tiny homes like they are something radically new but in reality it is more accurately a return to how humans lived for thousands of years before the last century.

When I was a college student at the College of William & Mary, I took several classes with Dr. Charles McGovern, a former curator whose scholarly specialty was American consumer culture of the 20th century.  I found his lectures fascinating and enjoyed them, but it was only years later in my appraisal career that I began to fully comprehend the totality of what he taught us about how carefully engineered corporate campaigns over decades succeeded in shifting our attitudes and relationship to things.  (Thank you, Charlie!)

Despite the presence of hundreds or thousands of items in a home, there are often very few objects that could be described as "heirlooms," and in fact it is typically those simple, beautifully made, useful objects I encounter all-too-rarely in my appraisal assignments that end up being the ones that bring comfort to heirs and that they'd like to keep.  People are drawn to the objects with embedded memories that remind them of the late loved one, not the closets packed with designer clothes or hundreds of collectibles.

It is with this perspective that I view Black Friday, and the gift-giving expectations of the holiday season in general, and wish that people could apply the lessons I've learned in estate appraisals to their planned purchases.  I am not against things.  I LOVE things.  I wouldn't be an appraiser if I didn't have a deep appreciation for things.  Time and training has honed my taste, however, to love particular sorts of things:  those that are well made of quality materials, will last for many years, and will bring joy for every day it is part of one's life.  Beautiful design and a light environmental footprint are also important to me.

Sometimes the very best gifts aren't tangible objects at all but are instead time spent with loved ones or helping to further a mission that is close to someone's heart.  It would thrill me if more people could expand their vision of the possibilities of the American consumer and gift-giving season.  By all means participate if you want to, but try pausing before doing what you think you're expected to do and consider what you want to do.  

Another option is to give your heirlooms now.  People frequently have a mental list of items they wish to bequeath to loved ones after their passing, but I can assure you that this can become very messy and ugly and leave a bad taste for what should have been a happy remembrance.  It can be so much more positive to give some of your cherished items to a loved one while you are still alive--they have the memory of you giving it to them and explaining why that thing was so important to you and why you want them to have it (these beautiful stories are so often lost in death), and you also remove the chance of family members fighting over belongings and your wishes not being carried out.

Regardless of how you celebrate the holidays (or if you don't celebrate at all, which is fine too), my wish is that my perspective as the person who is there when the story ends can help others make choices that will lead to happier endings of their own stories, and add an extra nuance to your enjoyment of things now that comes from a much deeper and older place than a reaction to a corporate marketing campaign.

 

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Tips For Developing a Disaster Preparedness Plan

September 15, 2017 Sarah Reeder
Tips For Developing A Disaster Preparedness Plan.jpg

Natural disasters have devastated the United States recently, from Harvey and Irma to the fires in the Pacific Northwest.  The impacts of climate change make it very likely that similar events will occur in the future, and for those of us fortunate enough to have escaped the wrath of the recent crises, now is an excellent time to assess our own situations and develop a plan for how to react if our homes are threatened in the future.  

Disaster preparedness plans are a standard practice in the museum world and can be easily adapted for private citizens.  By identifying your desired action steps in advance you can reduce stress when a real emergency is occurring and help prevent forgetting a cherished heirloom that you would regret losing in a disaster.

Before I begin with my tips, I have a crucial PSA.  While I may work in the realm of inanimate objects, I firmly believe that living creatures come first.  Save your family members and pets above all.  Objects can be replaced.  Living things can't.  If you have time constraints and need to choose what is saved, focus on the loved ones and animals.

It has been heartbreaking and disappointing to read the multitude of news stories about dogs and cats left behind in the wake of Harvey and Irma, a disturbing number of them abandoned opportunistically.  If you enjoy the gift of sharing your life with an animal, I implore you to develop a plan in advance for their safe evacuation with you.  Make sure you have a crate or carrying case that will comfortably accommodate your pet, and prepare a list in advance of items they would need such as any medications and favorite toys.  If you have not micro-chipped your pet so you can be reunited if separated, please make sure your pet is wearing a harness with clear identification tags with your name and phone number.  Rabies vaccination tags or locality license tags can also work for identification, but it takes much longer to have the records researched and linked to your name, and that is also reliant on the records still existing (and not underwater or burned up).

If my home is on fire, the only thing I'm grabbing is the dog.

If I have the luxury of time, these are some of the steps I would take before I evacuate:

-Gather and pack all medications for family members.

-Pack your passport and other difficult-to-replace important documents (birth certificates, Social Security certificates, vehicle titles, etc.)  If you don't have electronic billing, it may be helpful to take a box or binder of current accounts so you can keep up with your bills and maintain your credit score even if you can't yet return home.

-Pack at least a week's worth of your clothing, and consider adding items like winter coats that would be expensive to replace, even if they are currently out of season.

-Pack portable electronics like laptops or iPads, or if your computer is a large desktop model, consider investing in a portable hard drive to back up your computer's contents that you can take with you and use to restore a damaged machine or transfer your files to a new one.

-Prepare a "go-list" in advance of meaningful jewelry items you wouldn't want to lose, so you can grab them quickly in the event of an emergency and won't overlook a treasured piece because you are stressed and rushing.

-Consider if there are family photos you would hate to lose, and take the time to prepare a "go-album" of the images most special to you so you can grab it quickly if you have to evacuate.  It's also a great idea to scan the most cherished images and store an electronic version in a cloud-based location (you may wish to have a service that provides security, or a simple free version is a Google Drive album).  This way, if the original photographs are damaged or lost, you at least still have the digital version that can be accessed and downloaded later from a cloud location that isn't reliant on your house still standing.  While you are selecting and scanning, this is also a wonderful opportunity to share with children or family members WHY certain photos are important to you, and to write down who is in the images and what happened on that day.  So often this information is lost through the generations, and with it, many happy stories and a sense of connection with one's ancestors.

-If you have family sterling silver flatware and the space to take it in your car, this is a smart category of antique to bring with you as it also functions as a liquid asset.  The current market for china and crystal is too soft to recommend bringing it unless you have strong sentimental attachments to a particular service, in which case please feel free to save it.  Art doesn't handle temperature and humidity fluctuations well, and if you own a very small, very expensive painting, it might make sense to tuck it in the car with you rather than risk leaving it in the house.

-For larger items in the home that are too big to take, now is a good time to review your insurance coverage and make sure you are comfortable with your current level of protection.  Pull out your homeowner's or renter's policy and read through it carefully.  If your house burns down/floods/is destroyed by a tornado, what financial compensation would you receive from your insurance company?  What level of documentation would you need to provide to complete your insurance claim?  Would you need to have an appraisal report already on file, or could you obtain one after the fact?  If your house burned down, do you have pictures of the items you lost for an appraiser to work from?

If you are confused about your policy or have questions about confirming your exact level of coverage, don't hesitate to call up your insurance agent to discuss your policy.  It often doesn't make financial sense to have an appraisal report prepared for all of the art, antiques, and furnishings in your home, but many insurance companies have a monetary ceiling for coverage where they require an appraisal report on all items above this amount (the exact amount varies by company) or else you won't receive full compensation in the event of loss.  Determining your current coverage is sufficient, or finding out you should obtain a USPAP-compliant appraisal report for a handful of items in your home that exceed the ceiling, can help bring you additional peace of mind and take the steps needed in advance to make sure you are well protected.  From personal experience, I can attest as an appraiser that it is much easier to prepare an insurance appraisal of an item in good condition than a damage claim appraisal of an item in poor condition.

Even if your current coverage is sufficient, I strongly recommend walking through your home and taking what we call in the field "room shots" of everything in your home.  Take overall photographs of paintings and details of artist signatures, and capture each room from multiple angles to document all items in a room.  Whether on a standard camera or your phone, make sure you store a version of these photos electronically in a cloud-based location (for your security, don't include your address in the file names or in any other place associated with the images).  That way, if your house is gone, the photos documenting its interior haven't disappeared with it.

Hopefully these preparations will be for events that never occur, but being proactive in advance can help ensure that you and your family remain safe and your most cherished belongings are also spared from harm.

 

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Building a Collection and Art as an Investment

January 31, 2017 Sarah Reeder
Building a Collection and Art as Investment

I frequently see references to the concept of purchasing art as an investment or as a means of diversifying one's investment portfolio, a vision that is reinforced in the popular imagination with strategically edited clips of Antiques Roadshow where lucky people find out their yard sale item is worth thousands of dollars.  Sometimes that happens.  I'm certainly not going to claim it doesn't--I've personally held a client's amazing art pottery find worth several thousand dollars that was encountered at the Goodwill for $1.  But these occurrences are much more akin to buying a winning lottery ticket at your neighborhood 7-11 than a solid investment strategy.  In many cases, if you have available capital to invest, you're better off directing it to a mutual fund or similar traditional investment infrastructure than buying paintings with the expectation that a few years down the road they will greatly increase in value.  As an appraiser, it frustrates me to see people (usually people who stand to gain) encouraging purchases of art as an investment, especially because it leads to situations where well-meaning collectors can be taken advantage of, and most of all because it strips collecting of what I feel is its biggest appeal:  the opportunity to surround yourself with objects that bring you joy and enrich your quality of life each day.  Monetizing art collecting as an investment activity reduces the ancient, passionate practice of building a collection to a dry act of turning paintings into units of stock that can enhance one's "portfolio."  The word Wunderkammer (note the emphasis of "wonder") was used in 16th century Europe to refer to a large piece of furniture that was a quite literal cabinet of curiosities housing a collector's treasures, and many art historians consider the Wunderkammer a precursor to modern museums.

I tell my clients that the only way to be sure they are making a good "investment" is to purchase a piece they fall completely in love with and that speaks to them on a soulful level.  Those beloved pieces are the ones you'll never regret purchasing, even if they are worth a fraction of what you paid for them 10 years down the road, because you will have adored living with them every day.  You have no plans to sell them, because you cherish them, and your initial monetary outlay has accrued years of personal joy living with those objects.  That is the only reliable form of art as investment--an investment in your happiness.  Intriguingly, many of the works I've come across that actually did turn out to be a good financial investment followed a Warren Buffet style of investment rather than the quick flip we envision in our current culture--the clients purchased it many years ago because they loved it and lived with it for decades as it quietly grew in value.

With that said, there are better and worse sorts of purchases one can make, and in this post I hope to outline some basic tips that may help guide those new to collecting.  Below I've outlined a variety of factors to consider when embarking on an art purchase.  

The very first thing to ask yourself is what do you hope to accomplish by building a collection?  Is it to appear erudite, or delight your childhood self that loved opening a new box of crayons, or impress your neighbors and finally silence your arrogant sister-in-law, or to surround yourself with the warmth of handmade creations?  These are all perfectly valid reasons, but before you begin to assemble a collection it's useful to take a long, hard look at your driving motivations and visualize what you hope the collection will become.  This will help you better target the sorts of artists and works that will suit your collection's vision.

Once you have a sense of why you feel drawn to build a collection, the next step is to pay attention to what style of art attracts you.  Do landscape paintings sooth you, or do you enjoy Impressionist cafe scenes?  Maybe sculptures make your hands itch to throw clay on a potter's wheel, or portraits help you feel a connection to the past.  Over time you may notice patterns of art historical styles that you consistently find appealing.  One easy way to explore this is to visit a museum with a large, comprehensive collection and wander through the galleries.  Do you find yourself gravitating to a certain wing?  My personal taste is highly eclectic, but it will come as no surprise to regular readers that I can most often be found in the galleries devoted to 20th century art.

Did you discover that the Dutch Masters make your heart beat faster or you want to fill every wall of your house with Van Goghs?  Don't despair, you don't need to be a billionaire to afford original art in the genres that most speak to you.  One of the many wonderful things about the world of art is its variety.  With a little research, one can find contemporary artists making works in a variety of styles encompassing the entire span of art history, as well as older antique works.  

One of the biggest headaches in my line of work is the issue of authenticity, or is the work what it says it is?  A great way to bypass this altogether is to purchase works directly from the artist who made them.  Not only does this help support artists, but it gives your purchase a solid provenance (make sure to always save your original receipt!)  Some contemporary artists sell directly to collectors and some have gallery representation.  Generally speaking, a work purchased through a gallery is often at a higher price point (including the gallery's profit for selling it).  Purchase of a work directly from the artist or the gallery representing the artist is considered a very good provenance in the appraisal world, and will help support a work's value and authenticity in the future.

Another issue to keep in mind is what medium you'd like to purchase:  a wide range is available including original works in oil, acrylic, watercolor, pastels, graphite as well as printed works including etchings, lithographs, silkscreens, and digital prints.  Artists typically work in a few of their favorite mediums, such as mainly in oil.  Some artists work exclusively as printmakers and don't offer original works for sale, only limited edition prints.  The best choice for you depends on your taste and your budget, but there are a few basic patterns between medium and value to keep in mind.  Generally speaking and with all other factors being equal, there is a food chain of value based on medium to consider, with oil at the top, followed by acrylic, then watercolor, then pastel and ink, and then graphite.  Prints have a separate, lower food chain, with one-off prints such as monotypes at the top, then etchings, lithographs, and silkscreens, then digital prints at the very bottom.  I would advise being cautious about a digital print unless it is very cheap and you love it as they have an unrestricted production size and can be endlessly printed with no direct aesthetic input from the artist, so they tend to have very little appreciation value.  I also am leery of gicleés on canvas, which are a fancy way of saying a print on canvas that looks like a painting but isn't.  The "artwork" one can purchase at big-box stores with a printed canvas over stretchers are examples of gicleés.  This technology also does not have high appreciation potential, even for "artist accented" gicleés where brushstroke touches have been applied over the print (which is a very sneaky technique I've seen at times).  

Also, a few words on what the "limited" in "limited edition print" means: I've seen editions of 3,000 advertised as "limited," which is just silly.  I would not advise purchasing a print from an edition over 300 as the value will be severely compromised by a larger volume of prints in an edition.  Also, beware of prints with an embossed artist signature in the print but no pencil signature.  Salvador Dali prints should not be touched with a ten-foot-pole.  There are a notoriously large number of suspect Dali prints floating around the marketplace, and the lack of trust in the works has even harmed the value of the respectable ones.  

Whenever feasible I would recommend purchasing an original painting over a print, although prints can be a great way to access work by an artist whose paintings are out of your budget.  Is it important to you that you have a "name" artist, or are you searching for something beautiful to hang on your wall and the trendiness of the artist is not a concern?  If you are open to lesser known or emerging artists, you have a rich array of options open to you.  I've found Instagram to be a surprisingly useful tool for introducing me to new artists (you don't need to create an Instagram profile of your own to view the accounts of others).  If you discover an artist whose work you're particularly attracted to, following them on Instagram can help you learn of discount codes, new inventory or sometimes even sales conducted through Instagram.  If your collecting style is more analog, strolling seasonal art fairs and local galleries is a great way to train your eye and perhaps encounter a work that speaks to you.  While the art world has a (well-deserved) reputation for being expensive, there are some wonderful paintings out there priced in the low hundreds, and starting in this budget range can be a good way to get your feet wet in the process of building a collection and learn more about your tastes.  I would never recommend someone jump straight into collecting very high end, expensive art without taking time to experiment in a range where you feel less budgetary pressure.

If having a "name" artist is important to you, your collecting path is a little more complicated.  Because many people find having a "name" artist is important to them, there are quite a lot of wrong paintings out there meeting this demand with the right "name" on them.  Sorting this out requires art historical connoisseurship and expert knowledge, time, and money.  Depending on the quality of the wrong painting, it can be quite difficult to spot its dodginess.  What many collectors end up doing is spending a premium to purchase from a reputable gallery that has built a reputation selling that particular "name" artist's work.  It will usually be an expensive purchase, but the collector is purchasing the promise of authenticity as well as the work itself.  This probably isn't the answer you are hoping for, but in my experience this is the only reliable strategy for obtaining a real "name" artist's work.  Sometimes people get lucky, but in general if you are presented with an opportunity to purchase a "name" artist's work at a deal that seems too good to be true, that's because it probably is.  Particularly for antique paintings, I would highly recommend inspecting them in person whenever possible, as you can check the veracity of the condition report provided to you and see if the patina appears correct for its age.

As a separate caveat, sometimes even "name" artists considered to have very stable markets can experience market disruption, and spending money on a "name" work doesn't guarantee that it will experience healthy appreciation in value.  For many years Andy Warhol works were thought to be among the "blue chip" purchases of the art world, but last week the Art Market Monitor reported analysis by Artnet that Warhol's market dropped 74% between 2015 and 2016 (http://www.artmarketmonitor.com/2017/01/19/where-did-the-warhol-market-go-2016-sees-74-drop/)  I suspect that the massive sell-off of the Andy Warhol Foundation's holdings starting in late 2012 may have contributed to this (http://www.nytimes.com/2012/09/06/arts/design/warhol-foundation-to-disperse-collection.html) but my bigger point is that even if you do everything right and only purchase safe, blue chip artists, events like the Warhol liquidation may occur anyway and dash your investment dreams.  That's why you'll be happiest when you purchase art you love and invest in your own happiness.

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Safe Storage of Silver

November 23, 2016 Sarah Reeder
Safe Storage of Silver

As we pull out our silver flatware for Thanksgiving celebrations, now is an excellent time to assess whether your current silver storage will keep your sterling flatware safe and in good condition for your children and future descendants.  As an appraiser I have seen far too many sad situations where family sterling was ruined by being stored in improper conditions, always by well-meaning people who unfortunately lacked the knowledge about what storage situations are dangerous for sterling silver's chemical properties.  I hate having to tell people that their silver is damaged beyond repair, so please consider this post an Appraiser Public Service Announcement to take this opportunity as you clean up from the Thanksgiving holiday to make sure your silver is safely stored.

[If you are interested in learning more about your silver, you may enjoy my self-paced online course SILVER 101, with information available here]

Silver is highly chemically sensitive.  While most of us have buried our memories of high school chemistry far back in our minds, it's useful to dust off a bit of it to reconsider our sterling flatware in a new light.  When you polish tarnished silver, you are actually rubbing off part of the silver itself and exposing a new surface layer, which is why polished silver appears shiny and fresh.  That's one of the reasons that engraved designs on old, well-loved sterling can sometimes appear worn and faint--they literally have been rubbed off through decades of regular polishing.  Every time you polish the tarnish off your silver you are destroying a little bit of your silver, so it's very important to minimize the opportunities for tarnish and reduce the amount of polishing needed.

Tarnish is a chemical reaction between silver and sulfur elements in the air that combine to form a coating of silver sulfide (the dark substance we call tarnish) on the exposed surfaces of silver items, which is why safe silver storage is focused on inhibiting the ability of air to access the surface of sterling items.  (For anyone who is interested in the chemical equations and detailed information about the reaction, this educational website may be of interest:  http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/ed077p328A?journalCode=jceda8)

Have you ever wondered how museums keep the silver items on display in their collections looking so shiny?  A common technique in the museum world is to polish the silver item just once and then coat it with a protective lacquer that keeps sulfur from reaching the surface.  The Victoria & Albert Museum in London has a fascinating page online about how their conservation team lacquers and protects their silver items:  http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/s/silver-conservation/ 

Clearly, it's not so practical to expect your dinner guests to eat off of lacquered sterling flatware, so the storage solutions that are better suited for use by private citizens include silver flatware boxes and bags.  In my experience as an appraiser, I've found fitted wood flatware boxes to keep silver flatware in the least tarnished condition, although the V&A's conservation article cautions that the baize fabric used in some fitted boxes can emit tarnish-causing sulphur.  It's important to be careful that the box lining will provide a stable environment for your flatware.

Silver manufacturers often sell their own branded fitted silver boxes but it's not necessary to match the box to your pattern's company.  Retail prices for new, empty fitted boxes start at about $30 for the lowest quality models and average around between $100 and $150 for branded models.  Sometimes older boxes can be purchased secondhand on eBay and at other similar venues for a discount.

Silver bags are another option for protecting sterling items from tarnish and are well-suited for hollowware items that don't fit in silver flatware boxes.  Made of a soft felt-like material and drawstring closures to keep out the air, silver bags also serve to inhibit the exposure to tarnish-causing compounds in the environment.  The cloth of some models is embedded with materials to neutralize sulphur.  Silver bags are generally less expensive than fitted boxes and can readily be purchased online.  For a flatware service, I would recommend investing in a fitted box over bags, but the bags are still a much better option than many storage conditions I see in my work as an appraiser.

The following are things NEVER to do with your silver:

-DO NOT put plastic wrap around your silver to remove access to air.  The plastic wrap causes a chemical reaction with the silver, eventually turning it a putrid yellow color that can't be fixed.  While in theory this seems like it would be a good idea (i.e. air is bad so cover the surface from air), the materials in plastic wrap cause their own vicious reaction with the silver items that is much more harmful than the sulfur in the air would have been.  I've had to give the bad news to numerous people who've used plastic wrap on their silver and it is terribly unpleasant to have to do.

-DO NOT use rubber bands to bundle your silver flatware, or have rubber bands anywhere near your silver.  Rubber bands also cause a chemical reaction that eats away at the silver.  I've seen bundles of sterling flatware where the rubber band has literally eaten a scooped channel out of the flatware handles at the point of contact.

-DO NOT ever let salt come into direct contact with your silver.  Have you ever wondered why silver open salts always have blue cobalt glass liners?  That's because salt causes a chemical reaction with the silver (are you sensing a theme here?) and eats away at the item.  It's rather the same principle as the gardening practice of pouring salt on slugs--it does the same thing.  Silver salts need the cobalt glass liners to provide an impermeable barrier between the salt and the silver's vulnerable surface.  Similarly, it's not a good idea to serve very salty foods in silver bowls without having a protective bowl in between.

-DO NOT store your silver in newspapers or plastic bags.  While not quite as catastrophic as the materials mentioned above, newspapers and plastic bags also activate chemical reactions in the silver and contribute to deteriorating condition.  Twentieth century newspapers are made of wood pulp and are highly acidic (it's not a good idea to store anything in newspapers).

-DO NOT store your silver in a location that isn't climate controlled.  Here where I'm based in Virginia, temperatures range from over 100 degrees in the summer to almost 0 degrees in the winter.  It's not a good idea to put your silver through all those fluctuations, not to mention our infamous local humidity.  Attics are not healthy places for silver, or antiques in general.

-DO NOT put your silver in the dishwasher.  There are several schools of thought about this, with some firmly in the pro-dishwasher camp, and while you likely won't notice immediate damage if a fork accidentally gets in the dishwasher, it's not a good long-term practice.  The advent of dishwashers in many ways brought about the demise of regular use of beautiful china and silver flatware, but for special occasions it's not such a headache to spend a few extra minutes hand-washing your family heirlooms.  You can always bribe another family member to do it with promises of pie...


You may be interested in SILVER 101, a self-paced online course I created to help people identify their sterling silver and silverplate. You can learn all about SILVER 101 and enroll here!

Do you have family silver and are interested in having it insured?  Silver is one of my favorite things to appraise and I often prepare appraisal reports for clients for insurance coverage of their silver.  Limiting the appraisal to just the silver makes it a very affordable product and provides insurance protection for what are often some of the most expensive items in a household.  If you are thinking of getting an appraisal report for your silver, please feel free to call me at 703-543-2567 or email me at info@afhappraisal.com and I'd be happy to prepare a complimentary estimate for you.

FOR ADDITIONAL READING:

Winterthur published a very interesting description of their silver lacquering process: http://pressroom.winterthur.org/pdfs/Silver_Coating.pdf

In Antiques Tags silver, silver flatware, conservation, museums, silver expert, appraising silver, insurance appraisal
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